What’s a Tanuki? Oh, a Japanese Raccoon Dog

 Weird Japan, Weird Japan Misc., What is this?  Comments Off
Nov 062012
 

When my Japanese friends ask me to translate the word tanuki I am always a   little unsure of how to answer. The most popular translation I have seen is “raccoon dog” but I have also heard “raccoon,” “badger,” and “mischievous demon.”  The tanuki is a real life animal rarely found outside of Japan. It’s cuddly, it’s cute, and it is well referenced in Japanese literature, proverbs, mythology, and art—particularly statuary. The tanuki is most famous for several distinct characteristics and the fact that it loves to play tricks on people.

According to Wikipedia, the tanuki has 8 traits it can be identified by:

*a hat to be ready to protect against trouble or bad weather;
*big eyes to perceive the environment and help make good decisions;
*a sake bottle that represents virtue;
*a big tail that provides steadiness and strength until success is achieved;
*over-sized testicles that symbolize financial luck;
*a promissory note that represents trust or confidence;
*a big belly that symbolizes bold and calm decisiveness; and
*a friendly smile

Most laughable to foreigners are the tanuki’s in-your-face…um…pokéballs. You’ll see the smiling tanuki in storefronts, sold in gift shops, and I even found one in a men’s restroom with everything hanging out. We had a bit of a staring contest. He really made me feel stupid then uncomfortable, but alas that is what the tanuki specializes in.

A tanuki in Japanese folklore can shape-shift. It is said a kitsune or fox has seven forms, but a tanuki has eight. While the fox uses its powers to tempt people (sexy jutsu anyone?) a tanuki changes its shape to deceive. I recall reading an old Japanese tale where a tanuki becomes a teapot, but he is discovered when someone puts the pot on a fire to prepare some tea. Tanuki are not the smartest of creatures.

I’ll leave you with a proverb about tanuki:

捕らぬ狸の皮算用

Reading: Toranu tanuki no kawa zan’you
Japanese Meaning: Counting the skins of badgers you have not yet caught

English Equivalent: ”Don’t count your chickens before they hatch”

What Really Happens in a Love Hotel?

 Weird Japan, What is this?  Comments Off
Oct 142012
 

The mountainous terrain of Japan crams people into a few major concentrated cities whereby sidewalks can be just as crowded as local streets. Everywhere you go it seems there is nowhere to relax–a real problem if you want some alone time with a spouse or girlfriend or boyfriend. One of Japan’s solutions is the love hotel. When Westerners hear the word “love hotel” images of cheap, sleazy, and dirty motels come to mind. Yet Japan has made the love hotel experience a clean, fun, and relaxing world of privacy.

Sometimes love hotels are hidden and other times they are right out in       the open. During the 80’s and 90’s it was normal for love hotel   architecture to take on fantastical form. Castles or loud designs to attract attention were widespread and can still be found in parts of Japan. More common is a plain-looking establishment slightly off the main streets of highways. Many love hotels look just like ordinary buildings from the outside. There is no sign that says “Love Hotel Here,” but there is one way to tell if the place you will lodge is a regular establishment or one of a more intimate nature. A sign outside the front entrance will have two prices: one for overnight, and one option for a few hours “rest.”

Today’s love hotels stress the importance of privacy. Busy city love hotels have an entrance with only a control panel to greet you. You choose a room from what is lit on the control panel (darkened rooms mean they are occupied). Select the room, pay for it there at the panel and follow lit up arrows on the wall or floor to you room. Other hotels have their own systems. Some have interaction with a human, but there is no visual contact. A small counter is where money is exchanged and voice communication is over intercom. This prevents any embarrassment. In the countryside where a car is essential, love hotels are a bit different. Parking lots open up to over a dozen small buildings with attached garages. Pull into a garage and pull and lock the curtain to show others that the attached room is occupied, but more importantly to prevent anyone from catching a glimpse of your car or license plate. Pay at an ATM in the hallway and the door to your room unlocks.

It is hard to say what happens exactly in a love hotel. Since they are private and the rooms are much larger than regular hotel rooms, the options are endless. Sometimes people hold parties in them. Also there is often karaoke systems in the room included in the room charge, so in reality a karaoke outing in the room and bringing your own alcohol can end up cheaper than going out to karaoke, plus you can sleep in the room. Since pets are not allowed inside most hotels, my friend stays at love hotels because she can sneak her dog in. After entering the room though, there are obvious hints that this is a place of romance. Often a Jacuzzi style bath or large shower, an emperor’s sized bed, and sexy toys or costume catalogues are there to use at your leisure or a small fee.

Love hotels are uniquely Japanese. What you decide to do inside them is your choice.

The Globalism Game

 Art, Animation, Film, Culture, General, Life In Japan, Weird Japan, Weird Japan Misc., What is this?  Comments Off
Sep 072012
 

Osaka Ali rides the Hankyu Line train often and his eye frequently goes a-wandering. Recently, an in-car ad for a University called Ritsumeikan in Kyoto caught his attention. The poster was attractive enough to get him to look at their website. The events page yielded an even more interesting find: a panel discussion with the former president of the Japan Foundation, Kazuo Ogura. The title of the discussion was what hooked him, “Geneology of Anti-Globalism”. Faaascinating …

Banner ad

Ogura was recently invited to be a visiting professor at Ritsumeikan, a role to which he brings considerable experience. The Japan Foundation is a government organization (part of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs) that promotes Japan and Japanese culture around the world. Their main work includes arts and cultural programs, Japanese language education and intellectual exchange. As president of the Japan Foundation, Ogura oversaw literary symposia on the work of Haruki Murakami, arts exchanges with Afghan craftsmen, educational programs for Chinese students, programs for teens in disater-struck Aceh, Indonesia, co-operation between the US and Japan after Hurricane Katrina and the launch of the Japanese in Anime and Manga website. He additionally served as a deputy foreign minister for the Japanese government as well as an ambassador to three countries. He was joined on the panel by two other professors at the Ritsumeikan College of International Relations.

Osaka Ali decided to check it out, understand his adopted country a little better, and find out from the panel why they think that the world is turning against the idea of globalism. From the sub-prime crisis to the financial meltdown in Europe to the Arab Spring, the global fabric has been straining and tearing. Now grass roots phenomena like the Occupy movement are growing and spreading. “Geneology of Anti-Globalism” sought to learn where these movements came from, what birthed them, how they survive and thrive and how they are influenced by their local conditions.

The discussion covered many topics ranging from the number of democratic countries vs autocratic ones, export and import flows, money transfers, the degree of freedom of expression in various countries, the loss of languages and dialects, the proliferation of Non-governmental Organizations and even the number of foreign films to Japanese films in the Japanese movie market. It was enough to make an amateur researcher’s head spin (are you still with me?). Norihisa Yamashita and GyongSu Mun, both professors at the Ritsumeikan College of International Relations, also enriched the conversation contributing perspectives on the Trans Pacific Partnership treaty and Japan-Korea relations. Luckily all was made understandable by very capable translators commissioned by the University staff.

Who’s down with TPP? (Yeah, you know me)

After the discussion, Ali got a chance to talk to Professor Ogura and was able to ask him what his view of recent activities by anti-Globalist movements meant as well as what it means to be pro-, counter- or even perhaps alterna- globalism. His answer was a surprise in its simplicity. He said, “People reject globalism when they feel that they cannot participate. When you feel that globalism is something being done to you, you might reasonably reject it.” Participation in society, government, the world is the answer when the interconnected world makes life less than ideal and more like a straightjacket. The message Ali took from the conference is that the world will inevitably become smaller, but opportunity and duty require our participation and our voices. Even learning to communicate in a new language is way to participate, to be active and not a passive victim of global changes.

The panel participants with Professor Ogura at far left

After that Osaka Ali realized that he had a international-sized hunger in his belly. Heading home, he stopped in downtown Osaka. He had to reach out for a little bit of familiarity, somewhere, somehow … comfort food. But where to find the right meal after the deep intellectual discussions, amongst throngs of gastronomic choices available in downtown Umeda? Then, turning around after passing through the station, it stood just ahead … a grand announcement of the only kind of meal that could satisfy. The “Big America Grand Canyon” burger at McDonald’s. Osaka Ali made his way into the familiar fast food paradise without reluctance. Globalization 1 – Osaka Ali 0 …

The Monster Truck of Burgers

 

http://www.facebook.com/TheJapanfoundation

http://anime-manga.jp/index_english.html

http://www.ritsumei.ac.jp/eng/

Naruto’s Playground?: A Ninja Obstacle Course in Akita

 General, What is this?  Comments Off
Jul 292012
 

How many of us haven’t dreamed of becoming a ninja? I, like many others sometimes felt Akita Prefecture in Northern Tohoku is nothing special. At times it seems the rice fields outnumber the population of the towns I walk through. But, for those in the know and have a warrior’s passion, there is one place to hone your skills, if you know the secret.

                                         

Located a 10 minute drive, 40 minute walk or 20 minute ninja jog away from Akita International University is the inconspicuously named Athletic Field. But the sign can hardly fool a soul as in the immediate background lies a massive tower of nets, monkey bars, ropes, stairs, and ramps. If this is an ‘athletic field’ it must be for only the toughest of athletes.

Pass the family of cats that live in the abandoned electric transfer station along the main road, or take a trip through the bear-infested woods to find a ninja camp even few students at the nearby university don’t know about. For a few yen coins, you can run around to your heart’s content throughout countless number of obstacles and challenges. There are set courses and multiple paths of difficulty to test your balance, strength, speed, courage, determination, and will power. And forget about American safety standards. This place is aging and several obstacles were closed for repairs. Other times I found myself hanging from ropes 10 feet off the ground and my strength almost giving out. If I dropped, there was nothing to catch my but the hard earth.  But risking your life is only part of the fun!

Words can’t describe how awesome this place is. I almost lost my balance on a swinging wooden bridge crossing a gorge, snaked through nets, used ropes to swing across a pit to kick some hanging logs, and sped down a zip line for the big finale. The massive tower you see in one of the pictures is a beast! Naturally, it is the last obstacle after a day of sweat and torture, but also a day with a lot of smiles. Climbing to the top, you really feel you conquered the world. Yes, that day I was a ninja.

What’s your ninja story?

                       

A Cute Cross-Cultural Demigod

 Art, Animation, Film, Culture, General, Weird Japan, Weird Japan Misc., What is this?  Comments Off
Jul 092012
 

Osaka Ali has been told that in the land of the Rising Sun, religion is a taboo subject of conversation. But I find it hard to observe this proscription, especially when spirituality can be so kitschy and cute. So, let’s broach it, shall we? Look at this urban diety:

Kind of makes you want bow to him with a handful of incense and then tickle his feet, don’t you agree? Who is this sidewalk god-ity? His name is Billiken, and he is a sort of patron saint of free wheeling-and-dealing downtown Osaka. If you are thinking what I was thinking the first time that I saw him, you are wondering where he came from. He could be the obscure love-child of an enlightened being and a Kewpie doll, for all we know.

In actual fact, Billiken is not native to Osaka, or Japan, or even Asia. Billiken is American, in a stranger-than-fiction turn of events. He was born in 1908 in St. Louis, Missouri, the brainchild of Florence Pretz, an American art teacher and inventor. Initially, her creation was designed to serve as a charm doll novelty to be marketed to children in the US who were fascinated by all things exotic.

Billiken’s popularity grew, morphed and eventually waned, but not before he made it to the shores of Japan. The figurine’s debut here occurred in 1912 at the opening of Luna Park, a long disappeared Osaka attraction. It has been said that Billiken idols were even installed in some actual Shinto shrines to be honored, but were removed when war clouds emerged over the Pacific and western cultural imports fell out of favor.

As immortalized in the classic film “Waterloo Bridge” (1940), buying a Billiken is good luck, but receiving a Billiken as a gift is better luck still. What are Billiken’s main attributes? It is hard to say, really. One part of the Billiken metaphysical philosophy might be “It’s all good”. Another part might be “No worries, mate”. But my favorite is found in the inscription on the bottom of this Billiken idol found on the streets of Osaka near Yodogawa station: The God of the Way Things Ought to Be. That’s groovy …

So, if you find yourself in Osaka and you are temple-and-shrine-hopping, make sure to make a pilgrimmage to visit the venerable Billiken. Rub his soles for good luck. Then imagine how things ought to be.

The Original Osaka Billiken idol can be found in the historic Tsutenkaku Tower located at 1-18-6 Ebisu-Higashi, Naniwa-ku, Osaka, 556-0002. Admission is ￥600 for adults, ￥300 for kids. The tower is open year-round. (http://www.tsutenkaku.co.jp)

Special thanks to Akie Watanabe of All Star Tours for first enlightening Osaka Ali about the legend of Billiken.

Grab and go …

 Art, Animation, Film, Culture, General, Life In Japan, Made in Japan, Products, Weird Japan, Weird Japan Misc., What is this?  Comments Off
Jul 062012
 

You see strange things on the streets of Osaka. A professor of art once told me that a defining characteristic of Mexico City was its surrealism. So far in my experience, Osaka hasn’t matched El Districto Federal in the surrealism department, but sometimes it comes close … like the time I was walking through the suburbs surrounding Kansai University and witnessed a man taking a walk with his calico cat … on a retractable leash. He did this without a hint of self-consciousness. But the truly strange thing was that the cat accepted this situation as a completely natural circumstance. Of course, Osaka Ali took this event as proof positive of the imminent end times. Sorry readers, I didn’t have the guts to take his picture and post it here. Perhaps next time.

On the other hands, ummm, hand, I did have the cojones to snap a shot of this:

Easy rider …

Quite a handful an eyeful. Did Salvador Dali design this bicycle seat and forget to license it to Avocet? Well, it appears to be a beautiful accessory attached to an attractive custom “Von Dutch” style pinstriped cruiser bicycle. From what I could tell, the material of this saddle was a black polyurethane surface. I don’t think that it had inscribed handprints and fingerprints, so it wasn’t totally realistic, but I guess it was satisfactorily realistic enough for the owner to install it and presumably ride it. Notice the conveniently placed beer can. Do you think that the bike came from the factory with this seat as a standard option? All that I can say in hindsight *ahem* is that this bicycle seat gives new meaning to the word, “ergonomic”.

Does any reader know who manufactures this saddle?

This artifact was found at approximately 34.706561,135.499287

Gaijin SMASH!!! Foreign Sumo, anyone??

 General, Weird Japan, What is this?  Comments Off
Jun 302012
 

                       

Sumo is the traditional sport of Japan. Sumo tournaments throughout the year bring communities together as wrestlers not only fight for the championship title of yokozuna, but to entertain the gods. Sumo is steeped in Shinto religious references through rice throwing, purification through drinking water, and respect to ritual through bows and procedures for entering and leaving the ring. But sumo is changing. Foreigners from outside Japan from places such as Mongolia, are dominating the sport. Looking to get on in some of the fun, the foreign community in Akita held their own sumo fun. And your very own Tohoku Thunder was there to represent!

On June 24th of this year, the Akita JET Association held their 8th annual foreign sumo tournament forall to enjoy. JET of course is the Japan Exchange and Teaching Program that places Assistant Language Teachers throughout Japan. There were many current and former JET participants and since yours truly will apply for the program this coming year, I thought I should try on my sumo muwashi for size (it’s not a sumo diaper!). Following traditional rules with a little more humor and fun, the clash of the titans was about to begin!

My first match was against a former champion man twice my size. I thought I could trick him by sidestepping when he charged me at the start of the match. He didn’t fall for it. It wasn’t pretty as I tried to stay in the ring. The match is over when one person leaves the ring or when any body part besides the sole of the feet touch the ground. I was nearly hurled out of that ring. Many of us have battle scars from that day. It took a few more matches to get the hang of sumo. Advice from fellow sumo were to stay low, have confidence, and fight with all your heart. It was no longer fun and games, this was war.

It was my fourth match. Three loses had crushed my body, but not my spirit. My opponent and I slammed into each other. We danced around the ring trying to maintain balance and get an advantage. Several reversals and push and pulls resulted with me standing in the ring with  my opponent on the ground outside the ring. I had won!! At the end of the day I had won 3 out of 7 of my matches. I learned sumo wrestlers are real athletes. It is not easy to last so many rounds and give 100% while wearing so little body armor. The professional tournaments never come more north than Tokyo, so I was lucky to have this experience in Tohoku.

Proceeds from the tournament were donated to the March 11th Earthquake and Tsunami relief. Before departing we all agreed to train hard and battle again next year. We’ll see you there.

        The End.

 

Mr. Manners (Mister マナー)

 Art, Animation, Film, Culture, General, Life In Japan, Weird Japan, Weird Japan Misc., What is this?  Comments Off
Jun 192012
 

Mr. Manners has a friendly message for you…

Mr. Manners (Mister マナー) is your friendly cartoon character offering the uncouth all of the right tips to a civil express-train travel experience.

He greets you from the on-train advertising on the Nankai-Koya line in Osaka with his friendly smile, crisp green-framed glasses and M-logo utility belt. Check out his futuristic gettup with retro moonboots … He seems to point the way to intergalactic societal harmony. And of course, you can tell that he is well schooled in the intricacies of proper commuter etiquette. Obey and absorb what he says because he’s a model futurist.

What kind of soundtrack would you use if you were producing an animated PSA for Mr. Manners? Fusion Jazz? Electronica? Bossa Nova? 60′s era Moog music? ….. Ska?

But back to seriousness, what lessons does Mr. Manners have for us?

1. Keep the headphone volume down, lest you disturb your follow passengers…
2. Line up in two rows while awaiting your train in queue…
3. Throw your trash and recyclables in the proper receptacles (there are four … newspaper & magazines, pet bottles, glass bottles & cans and … other)
4. Mind your oversize bags… Other people need their space too, you know…

Yes, Mr. Manners cheerily offers the way to pleasant train riding for all travelers. Thank you Mr. Manners!

 

Osaka Ali

Sapporo Snow Festival

 General, Weird Japan, What is this?  Comments Off
May 102012
 

What do you want to do before you die? I know one thing I had to do. Just a few months ago my home in Tohoku was bombarded by blizzards and nightly snowfall. I didn’t think it could get any colder until I went to Hokkaido. Peaking at negative 12 Celsius, Hokkaido welcomed me with its frosty charm. Then again it was supposed to be cold because I went to the weeklong snow and ice festival in central Sapporo, Hokkaido. Each year in February, the most amazing scenes of the universe explode into the human realm. This place was just amazing and beautiful in so many ways. Oh, you must go.

                          

When people think of this snow festival, they think of snow. The modest snowman, however, is on vacation. Renting his timeshare are massive structures of snow over six stories tall. The Taj Mahal, Mickey Mouse, Lupe from One Piece, and a Japanese castle? No, that is just the beginning. There are over 200 snow creations large and small, ranging from anime characters and artistic manifestations to lifelike beauty in snow form. Additionally, there are ice sculptures occupying a street a few blocks away from the snow sculptures in the park. Each year is different at the snow festival, so each year is a new experience. This past year was the year of the dragon, thus there were many dragon sculptures to admire. Also, this past year was notably hotter than the last decade. Some of the smaller structures had partially collapsed from melting. I recall seeing Mario from Mario Kart with a face that only a mother could love: his face had partially melted and then refrozen into a distorted glory of its former self. That poor mustache.

Most notably, the snow festival has an international atmosphere. Naturally, most people are Japanese, but there are a large number of tourists coming from around the world to enjoy the sights. Also, within the snow festival is an international snow creation competition. Countries from around the world build and display their beauties for all to see, which are then judged by a selected committee. The party of snow and ice gazing intensifies with the live shows and delicious foods available. Then the night comes and it gets colder.

Your legs hurt from walking all day, your numb nose feels like it is about to fall off, and you just want to back to the hotel. That is until you realize the winter wonderland transforming into something bigger and grander than during the day.  Lights shine upon the larger sculptures, dancing, singing, and musical performances spread cheer through the night. Then a man-made..,mountain? A gigantic slope complete with jump ramps, towered above the crowd. Then I saw two snow boarders flying through the air! There was a snowboard contest in the middle of all these snow sculptures. Life just doesn’t get much better than the Sapporo Snow Festival.

 

Chilling Out in a Kamakura

 General, What is this?  Comments Off
May 102012
 

Each winter there is the Kamakura Festival in Yokote, Akita Prefecture. Up here in the North of Tohoku, the winters are long and harsh. In Yokote, as well as other places, people make the best of the cold weather by participating in winter sports and making igloos. Kamakura means igloo in Japanese and they are so cool (unapologetic pun intended). During this festival, I am told that igloos line the street and local families welcome passerby’s inside for a chat or maybe even a drink or meal. The problem was I was enjoying the snow festival in Sapporo, Hokkaido at this time (stay tuned for this future post!). Thankfully, there is an igloo museum a ten minute walk from the Yokote train station.

                                                                                                                       

The Yokote Igloo Museum, or rather the Kamakura-kan, is a tiny museum located in a shared building of half stores and half community and information center. A discreet entrance at the far end of the small store wait for you to pay your 100 yen—I love how most museums in Japan are so inexpensive. Despite its tiny size, the little museum can be a fun-filled half an hour. There is a video and some signage detailing the history of kumakura in Yokote (in Japanese). But of course the main attraction is the refrigeration room. This room is cold. Enter through the set of double doors and brace for the temperature to plunge down to minus 10 degrees Celsius (14 Fahrenheit). After the frostbite lessens its grip, you find yourself in a mini winter wonderland.

Inside the refrigeration room is none other than an assortment of igloos. A large one can be sat in by a whole family (just take off your shoes!). Another one is pure romance and is in the shape of a heart. Well, that’s about it. A trip to the igloo museum is a decent substitute if you have missed other opportunities to see igloos. Also, I am thinking about stopping there for some excessive air conditioning during the hot summer months. Travelers should note that the hotel next to the station houses an onsen (hot spring) and sauna on the top floor. Massage services are also available. Add in a lunch or dinner at the same hotel or nearby restaurant, and you have yourself a nice relaxing day in Yokote

.

 Older Entries