TohokuThunder

"Tohoku Thunder", aka Justin Velgus, is in love with Japan. In addition to his over 60 published articles about Japan, he is author of Ai, Love You? Finding Friendship, Romance, and Heartbreak in Japan. Buy it here: http://bookstore.xlibris.com/Products/SKU-0122262049/Ai-Love-You.aspx With a stay on a military base near Hiroshima, study abroad in the wintery northern Tohoku, and travels through Sapporo, Sendai, Akita, Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto and more, he has lived the Japanese experience. He enjoys sharing his passion through writing about the culture and people of Japan, being featured on media outlets such as Japan Tourist, Japan Today, and GaijinPot. He is continuing his Japan studies and is currently working on his next feature book.

Dec 122012
 

As an island nation, it is no surprise the Japanese took to fishing from early on. But the fishing industry has continued to grow beyond just a means of survival, incorporating leisure and tourism industries.

First and foremost, fish is grown in fish farms and caught in oceans as a means for food. Japan has been criticized by the international community for its “research” based whale hunting, or violent dolphin drives brought to light in the documentary “The Cove.” Fishing globally is endangering fish populations as the human demand for consumption increases annually. On a brighter note, the Japanese government and other nations are beginning to cooperate and develop fishing technologies that fish more efficiently. The future will tell if these promises and efforts become reality.

There are two “traditional” forms of fishing that can still be seen today, though as a tourist attraction. Ayu fishing was practiced by the samurai, and yours truly a few months ago! It involves fishing with a very long 15 feet (three meter) bamboo pole. Often you then have to catch your own bait of bugs or small crabs hiding in the ocean rocks. Then pierce them while they are alive so the bait moves– it’s not for the squeamish. Another form of fishing is cormorant fishing. Fishermen in row boats would tie one end of a string partially around the neck of cormorant birds. The birds would swim along the boat hunting their own meals. They could swallow small fish, but large fish become stuck in their tied throats, becoming meals for the fishermen.  

Leisure fishing has also taken off in Japan. Fly fishing is popular in mountain streams, but what do the city dwellers do when they don’t want a long trip to the mountains? Welcome to urban fishing. These areas within city limits are pools filled with fish. You rent your fishing equipment and pull up a seat along the other dozens of fishermen along the edges of the pool.   Catch and release and call it a day.

There are two favorite fishing activities I enjoy in Japan. First is the fishing game at matsuri, or festivals. You are given a piece of circular paper and must try to catch as many goldfish as you can before the paper breaks. But my all time favorite fishing activity is Doctor Fish. In this activity, you are the bait. You put your feet in a pool of water and hundreds of little fish come to eat the bacteria and dead skin cells off your feet. It tickles a bit, but afterwords your feet feel fresh. And you can be happy you gave the fish a tasty meal.

Happy fishing!

Nov 062012
 

When my Japanese friends ask me to translate the word tanuki I am always a   little unsure of how to answer. The most popular translation I have seen is “raccoon dog” but I have also heard “raccoon,” “badger,” and “mischievous demon.”  The tanuki is a real life animal rarely found outside of Japan. It’s cuddly, it’s cute, and it is well referenced in Japanese literature, proverbs, mythology, and art—particularly statuary. The tanuki is most famous for several distinct characteristics and the fact that it loves to play tricks on people.

According to Wikipedia, the tanuki has 8 traits it can be identified by:

*a hat to be ready to protect against trouble or bad weather;
*big eyes to perceive the environment and help make good decisions;
*a sake bottle that represents virtue;
*a big tail that provides steadiness and strength until success is achieved;
*over-sized testicles that symbolize financial luck;
*a promissory note that represents trust or confidence;
*a big belly that symbolizes bold and calm decisiveness; and
*a friendly smile

Most laughable to foreigners are the tanuki’s in-your-face…um…pokéballs. You’ll see the smiling tanuki in storefronts, sold in gift shops, and I even found one in a men’s restroom with everything hanging out. We had a bit of a staring contest. He really made me feel stupid then uncomfortable, but alas that is what the tanuki specializes in.

A tanuki in Japanese folklore can shape-shift. It is said a kitsune or fox has seven forms, but a tanuki has eight. While the fox uses its powers to tempt people (sexy jutsu anyone?) a tanuki changes its shape to deceive. I recall reading an old Japanese tale where a tanuki becomes a teapot, but he is discovered when someone puts the pot on a fire to prepare some tea. Tanuki are not the smartest of creatures.

I’ll leave you with a proverb about tanuki:

捕らぬ狸の皮算用

Reading: Toranu tanuki no kawa zan’you
Japanese Meaning: Counting the skins of badgers you have not yet caught

English Equivalent: ”Don’t count your chickens before they hatch”

Oct 142012
 

The mountainous terrain of Japan crams people into a few major concentrated cities whereby sidewalks can be just as crowded as local streets. Everywhere you go it seems there is nowhere to relax–a real problem if you want some alone time with a spouse or girlfriend or boyfriend. One of Japan’s solutions is the love hotel. When Westerners hear the word “love hotel” images of cheap, sleazy, and dirty motels come to mind. Yet Japan has made the love hotel experience a clean, fun, and relaxing world of privacy.

Sometimes love hotels are hidden and other times they are right out in       the open. During the 80’s and 90’s it was normal for love hotel   architecture to take on fantastical form. Castles or loud designs to attract attention were widespread and can still be found in parts of Japan. More common is a plain-looking establishment slightly off the main streets of highways. Many love hotels look just like ordinary buildings from the outside. There is no sign that says “Love Hotel Here,” but there is one way to tell if the place you will lodge is a regular establishment or one of a more intimate nature. A sign outside the front entrance will have two prices: one for overnight, and one option for a few hours “rest.”

Today’s love hotels stress the importance of privacy. Busy city love hotels have an entrance with only a control panel to greet you. You choose a room from what is lit on the control panel (darkened rooms mean they are occupied). Select the room, pay for it there at the panel and follow lit up arrows on the wall or floor to you room. Other hotels have their own systems. Some have interaction with a human, but there is no visual contact. A small counter is where money is exchanged and voice communication is over intercom. This prevents any embarrassment. In the countryside where a car is essential, love hotels are a bit different. Parking lots open up to over a dozen small buildings with attached garages. Pull into a garage and pull and lock the curtain to show others that the attached room is occupied, but more importantly to prevent anyone from catching a glimpse of your car or license plate. Pay at an ATM in the hallway and the door to your room unlocks.

It is hard to say what happens exactly in a love hotel. Since they are private and the rooms are much larger than regular hotel rooms, the options are endless. Sometimes people hold parties in them. Also there is often karaoke systems in the room included in the room charge, so in reality a karaoke outing in the room and bringing your own alcohol can end up cheaper than going out to karaoke, plus you can sleep in the room. Since pets are not allowed inside most hotels, my friend stays at love hotels because she can sneak her dog in. After entering the room though, there are obvious hints that this is a place of romance. Often a Jacuzzi style bath or large shower, an emperor’s sized bed, and sexy toys or costume catalogues are there to use at your leisure or a small fee.

Love hotels are uniquely Japanese. What you decide to do inside them is your choice.

Sep 292012
 

October is just around the corner and that      means it is time for Halloween. Halloween is a little different in Japan. Halloween itself has Pagan and Christian origins, yet today is primarily a holiday of spooky fun and celebration–at least in my home of North America. Last year was my first Halloween in the Land of the Rising Sun and I can’t wait for the next one. What’s not to love about the parties, seasonal treats, and the…Gaijin Train?

Popular in Japan and around the world are Halloween parties. The international university I attended had a rowdy party, while some schools I taught at had Halloween activities and parties for the children. We even had the young ghouls and goblins journey room to room saying “Trick-or-Treat” and receiving candies for their efforts. Unfortunately, if you knock on someone’s door October 31st in a terrifying mask, you’ll likely be in trouble with the police because trick-or-treating is not a public custom. I saw decorations around the malls and offices to get us in the holiday mood, but pumpkins being carved were rare. However, oddly enough, pumpkin foods were consumed in masse.

“No, we don’t eat pumpkin on Halloween in America” I recall explaining to my Japanese friends for the seventh time. They do in Japan. One cool thing about Japan around Halloween time is all the pumpkin dishes available. It is not uncommon for Japanese to enjoy eating pumpkin time to time throughout the year, but Halloween is when it’s nearly unavoidable. Pumpkin pie in October? Sure sign me up! Pumpkin flavored coffee? Hmmm… Well I’ll settle for those delectable pumpkin pie cheese cake flavored Kit-Kat bars. Fun Kit Kat flavors like green tea, apple, or soy powder should be reason enough to travel to Japan! And then there is the Gaijin Train.

Every year on or around Halloween there are rumors of the Gaijin Train. A Gaijin is a foreigner.  The Gaijin Train, also known as the Halloween Train, is full of Gaijin and their Japanese friends that take over for a night of mayhem. According to official records, the hijacking of a train each year on the Yama-no-te Line (the green line that goes around Tokyo in a giant loop) does not exist. If that is true, why did hundreds of police officers guard the train stations just a few years ago because of concerns from the community? The Halloween Train used to be advertised in English newspapers in Japan, but now like the subway itself, it is underground. Blogs, email, and word of mouth spread among Tokyo’s expatriate community just days before the big event, revealing which train, time, and platform the massive Halloween party takes place.

Japan’s version of Halloween may not be the Halloween I grew up with, but it can be just as fun. I have yet to ride the legendary Gaijin Train, so it remains on my long list of things to still do in Japan. For now I will enjoy dressing up, partying, and eating my Kit Kats and pumpkin.

Hello October and Happy Halloween!!

 

 

 

 

 

Sep 142012
 

No one likes taking out the trash. Waking up early in the morning or trying to find a trash can while walking on the street results from a minor annoyance to the first signs that you may need future anger management courses. Most of the time, throwing away trash involves just tossing your rubbish in the nearest receptacle or dropping your household trash off at the curb for pick-up. Welcome to Japan, where trash rules rule!

With all the wonderful food in Japan, you just got to run into the nearest konbini convenient store to buy some tasty food—but then you have some trash. If you were foolish enough to buy some food then go for a walk, you may be out of luck. While some Japanese consider walking while eating is rude, your real problem is finding somewhere to throw away your trash. Japan just doesn’t have many trash cans. Your best bet is to sneak into a fast food place or super market, or otherwise find the front of another konbini because otherwise you are expected to carry home your own trash and dispose of it at home. And remarkably, by seeing how clean Japanese streets are many people do throw their trash away in the proper place.

The headache doesn’t stop when you find a trash can because there is never just one. Trash cans in Japan are lonely so they are always found in groups. On a small island nation, Japan needs to recycle as much trash as they can. As such, within the line of trash cans you will find one for cans, one for plastic bottles, one for burnable trash, and perhaps even more (non-burnable, glass, paper, etc.) My friend has been yelled at by a Japanese police officer for using the wrong can, and I have dug through trash when I used the wrong container to save face in front of some locals. If you can’t read Japanese or understand the pictures, just take a peek inside at the contents to make sure you follow the correct procedure.

Lastly is the explanation to the picture in this article. This is the neighborhood trash area. In Japan, you don’t wheel your trash can to a curb and you don’t have a dumpster if you own an apartment. Each neighborhood has a designated trash area. All trash and recyclables are taken here. However, you can only deliver certain trash on certain days and times, and in special bags. There is no room to set trash cans out on the narrow streets, so you must go to the community bin. This part sucks. Taking out the trash started as a chore, but in Japan it is most certainly a monumental task. Walking two to three blocks to find the trash area in the mandatory morning hours particularly when it is snowing throughout the winter, is one thing you just have to put up with and learn to love.

Recyclables are understandably recycled, but the trash in Japan will never be seen again. Trash is burned in high technology incinerators which converts the heat into energy. When in Japan, keep it clean.

Aug 162012
 

     One thing I really missed about America was driving. Driving is almost a necessity in the States and I missed the sense of freedom and independence when I had to rely on buses and trains. Buses and trains are fine in the larger cities, but Tohoku is not Tokyo. Buses came every hour and trains were few and far between. The last train to my station was at 10:30 at night, so partying either had to last all night until the morning or ended early. That’s why it was such a relief when my best friend started to let me drive their car. But first came the rules of the road.

Of course you will need a license to drive in Japan, but as a newcomer to Japan you will be more than fine with an international  driver’s license. It is important to get this before coming to Japan because it is nearly impossible to get once you leave home. There is not  really any special requirements to get this other than contact your insurance company and the Department of Motor Vehicles, pay about 15 bucks and submit a brief application with a passport photo. However, you must also have a valid driver’s license in your country (ie the USA). International Driver’s Licenses are  valid for one year. They can technically be renewed if you come back to the States each year, but it is frowned upon if you never get your Japanese Driver’s license–which is incredible hard to do.

Once you have your license, are ready to start driving. I got into the right side of the car to start doing some practice circles around the parking lot. I then turned onto the road and began my first one and half hour drive on a country drive. Driving on the left side of the road is not so bad actually. Turning in the intersection is quite challenging, but I found the narrow roads much more scary. Often roads did not have center divides which meant cars zoomed within inches of mine. Still I enjoyed my new sense of freedom and asked my friend more about driving in Japan.

  First I had to ask why some cars had yellow license plates and some had white license plates. Yellow plate cars are considered lightweight cars and white plates are heavy weight cars.  The distinction is made because there are countless regulations and expenses that go with each model. Lightweight cars are cheaper in nearly all categories, but if you are driving far distances often, a more powerful engine and room for passengers and items might be a better option. Freeways in Japan are on a toll system, gas prices are by the liter and are expensive, and maintenance checks are ridiculous. Also registration, taxes, and insurance are also more expensive with a heavier car. And let’s not forget changing the tires every year for the snow season and then switching back in the Spring. At least car washes run less than four bucks at the gas stations.

I hope you can all experience driving in Japan at one point, but if you want to own your own car, be prepared for the rules of the road and expenses that come with the wheels.

 

Jul 292012
 

How many of us haven’t dreamed of becoming a ninja? I, like many others sometimes felt Akita Prefecture in Northern Tohoku is nothing special. At times it seems the rice fields outnumber the population of the towns I walk through. But, for those in the know and have a warrior’s passion, there is one place to hone your skills, if you know the secret.

                                         

Located a 10 minute drive, 40 minute walk or 20 minute ninja jog away from Akita International University is the inconspicuously named Athletic Field. But the sign can hardly fool a soul as in the immediate background lies a massive tower of nets, monkey bars, ropes, stairs, and ramps. If this is an ‘athletic field’ it must be for only the toughest of athletes.

Pass the family of cats that live in the abandoned electric transfer station along the main road, or take a trip through the bear-infested woods to find a ninja camp even few students at the nearby university don’t know about. For a few yen coins, you can run around to your heart’s content throughout countless number of obstacles and challenges. There are set courses and multiple paths of difficulty to test your balance, strength, speed, courage, determination, and will power. And forget about American safety standards. This place is aging and several obstacles were closed for repairs. Other times I found myself hanging from ropes 10 feet off the ground and my strength almost giving out. If I dropped, there was nothing to catch my but the hard earth.  But risking your life is only part of the fun!

Words can’t describe how awesome this place is. I almost lost my balance on a swinging wooden bridge crossing a gorge, snaked through nets, used ropes to swing across a pit to kick some hanging logs, and sped down a zip line for the big finale. The massive tower you see in one of the pictures is a beast! Naturally, it is the last obstacle after a day of sweat and torture, but also a day with a lot of smiles. Climbing to the top, you really feel you conquered the world. Yes, that day I was a ninja.

What’s your ninja story?

                       

Jul 172012
 

                    

In a tiny temple in Sakata, Yamagata Prefecture there are two priests which have been sitting endlessly since their death over 250 years ago. These Buddhist priests of the Shingon sect preside over the temple and according to the city registry, they are still alive. As living priests, the two receive stipends that help support and maintain the temple. We were told each was atoning for a sin.  By killing themselves, these priests believed they can repay for their sins and also protect the community by suffering for all their sins through a long and painful death. It was obvious to me these mummies were not like the Egyptian mummies in my history books. First of all, these mummies were completely black, dressed in exquisite robes, and had shiny “skin” (though the shine is a protective coating of wax). Their tale of death is a remarkable feat and an interesting tale.

Over a 3000 day period, a priest that wishes to try to become a living mummy must go through increasingly difficult stages of self starvation. The first 1000 days consists of extreme exercising and fasting. The next 1000 days are reducing the diet to pine bark and leaves and drinking arsenic water. In Yamagata and a few other prefectures, natural springs contain trace amounts of arsenic. The poison was in small amounts, so it killed slowly as it accumulated in the living mummy to be. There are no such springs in Akita, and thus no living mummies in this prefecture. The fasting and self poisoning was strictly followed to remove all the excess fat (and eventually muscles and brain matter) from the bodies of the priests. If there was any fat at all after the final stage, the body would have trapped gas that would expand and destroy the body. If a priest survived the first two stages, the last stage was to be buried alive. A shaft was dug into the ground and the priest entered it. Then the shaft was enclosed with stones and only a long pipe lead to the surface. This pipe was used for air and as a means to hear the bell the priest rang while meditating. As soon as the people above stopped hearing the bell ring, they covered the pipe, sealing the tomb forever.

After a few years, the priests are dug up. Most priests’ bodies are destroyed by gases left in body, insects, improper sealing of the tomb, or for millions of other reasons. But the priests believed if one’s body was not carefully preserved it was because the partitioning priest did not faithfully follow the starvation suicide ritual truthfully.  Less than thirty of an estimated thousand or more priests were fully preserved. Unlike the Egyptian mummies, the Sakata priests’ maintain their organs, although dried out, inside their bodies. The priests’ elaborate robes are changed every twenty years. Strands of the robes are put into charms and sold as good luck mementos. For their extreme sacrifice and good for humanity (in their eyes) the Sakata living mummies deserve to be revered throughout the generations, because as the mummies demonstrate, life continues after death.

Jun 302012
 

                       

Sumo is the traditional sport of Japan. Sumo tournaments throughout the year bring communities together as wrestlers not only fight for the championship title of yokozuna, but to entertain the gods. Sumo is steeped in Shinto religious references through rice throwing, purification through drinking water, and respect to ritual through bows and procedures for entering and leaving the ring. But sumo is changing. Foreigners from outside Japan from places such as Mongolia, are dominating the sport. Looking to get on in some of the fun, the foreign community in Akita held their own sumo fun. And your very own Tohoku Thunder was there to represent!

On June 24th of this year, the Akita JET Association held their 8th annual foreign sumo tournament forall to enjoy. JET of course is the Japan Exchange and Teaching Program that places Assistant Language Teachers throughout Japan. There were many current and former JET participants and since yours truly will apply for the program this coming year, I thought I should try on my sumo muwashi for size (it’s not a sumo diaper!). Following traditional rules with a little more humor and fun, the clash of the titans was about to begin!

My first match was against a former champion man twice my size. I thought I could trick him by sidestepping when he charged me at the start of the match. He didn’t fall for it. It wasn’t pretty as I tried to stay in the ring. The match is over when one person leaves the ring or when any body part besides the sole of the feet touch the ground. I was nearly hurled out of that ring. Many of us have battle scars from that day. It took a few more matches to get the hang of sumo. Advice from fellow sumo were to stay low, have confidence, and fight with all your heart. It was no longer fun and games, this was war.

It was my fourth match. Three loses had crushed my body, but not my spirit. My opponent and I slammed into each other. We danced around the ring trying to maintain balance and get an advantage. Several reversals and push and pulls resulted with me standing in the ring with  my opponent on the ground outside the ring. I had won!! At the end of the day I had won 3 out of 7 of my matches. I learned sumo wrestlers are real athletes. It is not easy to last so many rounds and give 100% while wearing so little body armor. The professional tournaments never come more north than Tokyo, so I was lucky to have this experience in Tohoku.

Proceeds from the tournament were donated to the March 11th Earthquake and Tsunami relief. Before departing we all agreed to train hard and battle again next year. We’ll see you there.

        The End.

 

Jun 122012
 

                    

Kosaka is located in Norther Akita. This article introduces two famous locales of Kosaka: the Korakukan and the Mining Office.

 Korakukan

According the tourist pamphlet I received, the Korakukan is Japan’s oldest wooden playlist. The outside architecture is Western, but the inside remains Edo Japanese style. During a field trip we explored the ins and outs of the theaters, and also saw a play. I have seen two plays here before with school classes which were spectacular versions of modern kabuki. Architecturally, the building was built in 1910 with a Western exterior, but an inside reflecting traditional kabuki aesthetics. A large stage was flanked by two towers with a wooden curtain separating an inner alcove. Although today a modern speaker system is used, not too many years ago musicians played their instruments from these quarters. When a student asked why the musicians were not on stage, someone made the comparison that today’s musicians remain unseen while playing in orchestra pits during modern theater. The music it seems is an accompaniment to what happens on stage.

The kabuki stage held many secrets we were enlightened to through a helpful tour guide. Small catwalks cut across where lower level audience members sit to bring the action to the audience. A trap door on one of the walkways was used to introduce demons or hoist up a prop. The backstage held more history. In the changing and makeup rooms were scribbles all over the walls. In reality, these were Japanese signatures of famous kabuki actors. Under the stage was the biggest surprise of all. There is an original man-powered revolving stage. There is no electronic equipment down there, thus we were told that the sound of someone stomping was cue to start moving. The stage must have weighed a few tons, but because it was so perfectly balanced and constructed, it took only four people to move it.

 

       

Kosaka Mine Office

Literally across the parking lot is the Kosaka mining office. Northern Akita has a long history of mining. Samurai daimyo and family clans owned and lost mines, Koreans were forced to work in them as slave labor, and underground Christians worked in the mines to avoid capture. Some of the largest gold and silver mines in Asia were once located in Kosaka. Copper, zinc, and other metals were also mined or smelted in the region. Less than four decades after the Meiji Restoration, a Western style mining office was constructed in 1905 in the region and foreign experts like Curt Netto from Germany were hired to improve mining efficiency.  In 1998 the Mining Office was dismantled to allow for the extension of a smelter. A tourist packet boasts the building was reconstructed by skilled artisans using traditional methods and they recycled 90% of the original materials during construction.

Today, the mining office is mostly a tourist location. It is great to combine with a trip to the Korakukan theater.  The office houses local history of the mining operations and pays homage to the kabuki theater it overshadows with a hologram miniature kabuki show in one of the exhibit rooms. The office remains a symbol of Kosaka and is doing its best to help everyone learn its history. It is home to meetings of a local international society and its English pamphlets are always appreciated  (though exhibit signs are in Japanese only).

Traditional mining has dried up in the region, but a new way of mining is underway in Norther Akita. Anyone that has come to my beloved Tohoku region realizes the abundant nature and beauty the North offers residents and travelers alike. Being more tune in nature than perhaps other parts of Japan, there is a conscious effort to protect the environment and recycle. Modern day “urban mining” involves separating and selling minerals extracted from old cell phones, computers, and electronics. There is an “Eco-town” accessible by car and not far from the mine office and theater. I haven’t been there, so let me know when you go!